BERLIN WALL

Berlin Wall East Side Gallery

Berlin Wall East Side Gallery

Politics is the continuation of the war (with) by other means“. That’s the slogan on this original section of the Berlin Wall. If you want to see the longest remaining stretch of the Wall, then the East Side Gallery is the place to go, in what was once East Berlin controlled by the communist DDR. I visited it in 2006 and stayed at a hotel close by at the Ostbahnhof (East station). I think it was a weekend, a Sunday morning, as there was little traffic around.

Berlin Wall East Side Gallery

Berlin Wall East Side Gallery

Berlin Wall East Side Gallery

Berlin Wall East Side Gallery

But this part of the German capital’s history is under threat. The Guardian reports that construction workers backed by police have removed a section of the Wall to make way for a building project, despite calls for the site to be preserved. Residents expressed shock at the removal of part of the East Side Gallery, which followed a series of protests, including one attended by the actor David Hasselhoff. A police spokesman said there were no incidents as work had begun at about 5am to take down four sections of the wall, each about 1.2 metres wide, to make way for an access route to the planned high-rise luxury flats. The site is alongside the River Spree.

The East Side Gallery was recently restored at a cost of over £2m to the city. Construction staff removed a piece earlier this month but a public outcry halted building work, with local politicians saying they would look for a way to keep the rest of the wall intact. At least 136 people died trying to scale the wall that divided communist-run East Berlin from West Berlin.

The wall which was erected in 1961 came down on November 9th 1989. This stretch along with other bits such as former watchtowers then became a tourist attraction, with colourful paintings by 120 artists decorating the concrete slabs. Kani Alavi, head of an East Side Gallery artists’ group, said: “I can’t believe they came here in the dark in such a sneaky manner. All they see is their money. They have no understanding for the historic relevance and art of this place.”

By mid-morning the six-metre gap was covered by a wooden fence and guarded by scores of police officers. An Irishman Ivan McClostney who moved to the area a year ago from Ireland is quoted as saying: “If you take these parts of the wall away, you take away the soul of the city. This way, you make it like every other city. It’s so sad.”

Berlin Wall with TV tower in background

Berlin Wall with TV tower in background

The developer said the removal of parts of the wall was a temporary measure to enable trucks to gain access to the building site. He said after four weeks of fruitless negotiations with city officials and owners of adjacent properties, he was no longer willing to wait. I am wondering if this reminder of the divided city will still be there the next time I go to Berlin, one of my favourite travel destinations.

VESUVIUS LEGACY

Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius

Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius

My summer sojourn for a fortnight on the Amalfi coast in Italy enabled me to visit Mount Vesuvius near Naples and to see the ruins of Pompeii, or at least part of the large site. Time did not permit a trip to nearby Herculaneum. But I watched with interest tonight a documentary on BBC2 about “The Other Pompeii: Life and Death in Herculaneum. Professor Andrew Wallace-Hadrill from Cambridge and Director of the Herculaneum Conservation Project presented the programme.  In it he follows the scientific investigation that aims to lift the lid on what life was like in the small Roman town of Herculaneum, moments before it was destroyed when Vesuvius erupted in 79AD.

Ten miles from Pompeii, twelve arched vaults at Herculaneum were found to contain the skeletons of over 340 people, just 10% of the local population, killed by the volcano. The finds included a toddler clutching his pet dog, a two-year-old girl with silver earrings and a boy staring into the eyes of his mother as they embraced in their last moment. Those found inside the vaults were nearly all women and children. Those found outside on the shoreline were nearly all men, in what appeared to be a selfless act on their part.

The documentary based on the research unravelled a surprising story of resilience, courage and humanity, with the local population going to their deaths not in the orgy of self-destruction often portrayed in Pompeii’s popular myth, but, much more like the passengers of the Titanic, it seems the ancient inhabitants of Herculaneum put women and children first.

Carbonised wooden cradle: Pompeii Exhibition: © British Museum

Carbonised wooden cradle: Pompeii Exhibition: © British Museum

The BBC programme and another related one broadcast last Wednesday on “Pompeii: The Mystery of the People Frozen in Time” coincide with the opening of a major exhibition at the British Museum. “Life and Death: Pompeii and Herculaneum” will run until the end of September and the normal admission price is £15.

Gold Bracelet in form of a coiled snake: Pompeii Exhibition: © British Museum

Gold Bracelet in form of a coiled snake: Pompeii Exhibition: © British Museum