SHENANDOAH PARK

Big Run Overlook in the Fall

Big Run Overlook in the Fall

Listening to the tenor Colin Morgan singing the American folk song “Shenandoah” on the Late Late Show brought back memories of a visit to this beautiful area in August 2009. In the Shenandoah National Park 75 miles from Washington DC in Virginia, there is a “skyline drive” on the crest of the Blue Ridge mountains, a scenic roadway taking you from one end of the park to the other (105 miles), with a speed limit of 35mph for cars. There is also lodge and cabin accommodation in different areas of the park. In some versions of the song, the name “Shenandoah” refers to an Indian chief, not to the Shenandoah Valley or Shenandoah River. However, an early rendition of the song includes verses that appear to allude to the Shenandoah River, which is partly in Virginia (wikipedia).

Irish Creek Valley

Irish Creek Valley

Passing through Shenandoah Park, you come to the Blue Ridge Parkway, along the Blue Ridge, part of the Appalachian Mountains. One of the many viewing places along the way was at Irish Creek Valley at milepost 43. It got its name from Ulster-Scots immigrants who settled along the banks of the river in the 1700s. For a 360° view click here. A few miles away are the remains of the Irish Creek Railway (logging railroad). There is a parking spot at Yankee Horse Ridge (MP35), where legend has it that a Union soldier’s horse fell and had to be shot.  Construction on the railroad began in 1918 and was completed two years later, with the length of the railroad stretching to 50 miles. The track was built to haul lumber during the pre-parkway logging days. In a document from 1918, one individual reported, “At present, however, a logging railroad is being built up Irish Creek to a point near Irish Creek post-office, and this would make transportation somewhat easier” (Henry G. Ferguson, Virginia Geological Survey).

SHERGAR

Ballymany Stud

Ballymany Stud

Thirty years ago as an RTÉ television news reporter I stood outside the gates at the main entrance to Ballymany Stud owned by the Aga Khan near The Curragh in County Kildare on the trail of the racehorse Shergar. He still hasn’t turned up, although there are many rumours about his fate. It became one of the most famous cases in the world of an animal being kidnapped. The 1981 Derby winner  was taken from his box by a group of armed men on February 8th 1983.

Shergar was a celebrity in his own right and was beginning his second year out to stud.  Three armed men wearing masks entered the grounds in a car with a horse trailer attached and then threatened the head groom Jim Fitzgerald and his family. Gardaí at Naas led by trilby-wearing Chief Superintendent Jim “Spud” Murphy immediately began an investigation into the whereabouts of the famous stallion. Several different ransom demands were made but the identity of the thieves has never been discovered, nor has the last resting place of Shergar. There have been plenty of theories about the group responsible. One suggestion is that it was an IRA gang intent on raising money to buy arms and that when they bundled the five year-old horse into the trailer he became excitable and unmanageable so the gang decided to shoot him. But the paramilitary group never claimed any connection. The story became international news and remains so today, for example on CNN.

Shergar (Getty Images via CNN)

Shergar (Getty Images via CNN)

The video of my piece to camera outside the stud keeps re-appearing in the RTÉ series “Reeling in the Years” and other programmes such as Mario Rosenstock’s “Twenty Moments that Shook Irish Sport” in 2007 (video link here at 1:17). If I was on commission for each time it was played, I would probably be a rich man by now!

Shergar: a racing legend, an IRA kidnap & ransom, a bungled investigation and an enduring myth.
Shergar was an acclaimed racehorse. Winner of the 1981 Epsom Derby by a record ten lengths, he was named European horse of the year that same year and retired from racing that September. Two years later, on the 8th of February, he was kidnapped from Ballymany Stud, near the Curragh. Despite a massive hunt and with the country gripped by Shergar-fever, the horse was never found. It is believed the IRA unit who kidnapped him killed him a few days later when negotiations for a two million pounds sterling ransom collapsed. However, to this day, Shergar’s remains have never been found and his disappearance has been one of the greatest myths of recent Irish times.

The story was also the subject of a film, made on the Isle of Man in 1998 and released the following year. It starred Sir Ian Holm, Mickey Rourke, David Warner and Gary Cady. My cousin in Belfast the photographer Phil Smyth has just reminded me that he saw the film when he was in Sydney, Australia, and that it used the news report with my piece to camera in it!film

BUSBY BABES

Old Trafford Memorial

Old Trafford Memorial

Five years ago when then Taoiseach Bertie Ahern needed a quick summit meeting with the British Prime Minister Gordon Blair to discuss the problem over the devolution of  justice and policing powers in Northern Ireland, he went to Manchester. They met on a Sunday morning in a conference room at Manchester airport. Mr Ahern was accompanied by the Irish government press secretary Eoghan Ó Neachtain (now TG4 rugby pundit). Myself and an RTÉ News cameraman from Belfast were the only ones allowed to do the “pool” pictures, along with a local stills photographer from PA.

Bertie Ahern & Gordon Brown (PA Pool Picture)

      Bertie Ahern & Gordon Brown (PA Picture)

No questions were allowed to be asked as they sat down together, it was just a photocall. An Taoiseach however did agree to answer a couple of questions for me after the meeting. Both he and Mr Brown then left separately to go to Old Trafford, where Manchester United were remembering the 50th anniversary of the Munich plane crash. I did not get into the ground, where the two leaders were sitting in a VIP box, but spoke to some supporters as they arrived for the game. It gave me a chance to see the Munich memorial attached to a wall at the side of one of the stands, and the memorial clock attached to the south-east corner of the stadium. A special match programme was also issued to remember those who died.

Munich Clock

Munich Clock

Eight Manchester United players from the “Busby Babes” team, among them Billy Whelan from Cabra in Dublin, lost their lives when the Airspeed Ambassador plane they were travelling back to England in crashed on the runway during snowy conditions at Munich airport. Three staff from the club and a number of well-known English sports journalists were also killed. Others were lucky to survive, such as Bobby Charlton and goalkeeper Harry Gregg (then 24) from Northern Ireland. He attended the funeral of veteran sports journalist Malcolm Brodie in Belfast on Monday. Thinking now of the victims and survivors of the crash.

The Flowers of Manchester

One cold and bitter Thursday in Munich Germany

Eight great football stalwarts conceded victory

Eight men will never play again who met destruction there

The Flowers of English football the Flowers of Manchester

Matt Busby’s boys were flying home returning from Belgrade

This great United family all masters of their trade

The pilot of the aircraft the skipper Captain Thain

Three times they tried to take off and twice turned back again

The third time down the runway disaster followed close

There was slush upon that runaway and the aircraft never rose

It ploughed into the marshy ground it broke it overturned

And eight of the team were killed as the blazing wreckage burned

Roger Byrne and Tommy Taylor who were capped for England’s side

And Ireland’s Billy Whelan and England’s Geoff Bent died

Mark Jones and Eddie Colman and David Pegg also

They all lost their lives as it ploughed on through the snow

Big Duncan he went too with an injury to his brain

And Ireland’s brave Jack Blanchflower will never play again

The great Matt Busby lay there the father of his team

Three long months passed by before he saw his team again

The trainer, coach and secretary and a member of the crew

Also eight sporting journalists who with United flew

and one of them Big Swifty who we will ne’er forget

the finest English ‘keeper that ever graced the net

Oh England’s finest football team its record truly great

its proud successes mocked by a cruel turn of fate

Eight men will never play again who met destruction there

the Flowers of English football the Flowers of Manchester

Author: Eric Winter (1958)

POLITICS OF BROADCASTING

P1100145 - Copy (263x350)Martina Purdy political correspondent of BBC NI said she would never go into politics. Tracey Magee acting political editor of UTV believed the skills of journalism does not translate into politics. Both were asked if it was time for a female journalist to go into politics during a discussion at the Long Gallery at Parliament Buildings in Stormont, hosted by the Royal Television Society NI. Martina told the audience that journalists (with few exceptions) do not make good politicians. Those who remember the experience of RTÉ’s George Lee who was elected as a Fine Gael TD in June 2009 and resigned nine months later will agree with that.

If you want to gain a further insight into the discussion for which former UTV News Editor Rob Morrison acted as question master, you can follow it on twitter @RTS_NI. Twitter itself was the subject of one of the questions about the role of social media in coverage of politics in Northern Ireland. Tracey’s view was that twitter is far more immediate and can make things very difficult for journalists covering a story. She felt there was a lack of understanding about how it works. When she tweeted the words of a politician, she was reporting and was not giving her own opinion. Yet some users failed to make the distinction.    P1100147 - Copy

For Martina as a working journalist, twitter can be “a bit of a nightmare”. It can be very very annoying at news conferences in her view, and she would like to ban it on such occasions. She gave one example when Jim Allister of the TUV referred to Eamon Mallie as a “tweet freak”.  Michael Wilson managing director of UTV who organised the meeting on behalf of the RTS said he believed there was a good balance of political coverage in Northern Ireland and some of the Assembly’s best work goes unreported.

Earlier the visitors were given a briefing in the Senate chamber by Susie Brown, Head of Communications of the NI Assembly and Norah Anne Baron MD of Pi Communications, which has the contract for the broadcasting of proceedings. The group was then given a tour of the studios, including the Pi Communications control room and the UTV studio, which Tracey Magee broadcasts from.

Aidan Browne in UTV Studio

Aidan Browne in UTV Studio

ARAS AN UACHTARÁIN

Aras an Uachtaráin

Aras an Uachtaráin

A recent visit to Aras an Uachtaráin, the official residence of the President of Ireland, at Phoenix Park in Dublin enabled me to see some of the features of the building, following a reception by President Higgins. I had been at the Aras twice before to meet his predecessor, Mary McAleese. Since the inauguration of Michael D. Higgins as ninth President nearly fifteen months ago, there have been a few changes inside the Aras.

Presidential harp on ceiling

Presidential harp on ceiling

One of the first things to catch the eye of the visitor is a large painting in the entrance hallway by a Chinese artist Zhao Shao Rou dated 11-11-2011, when President Higgins was inaugurated at Dublin Castle.  The hall with its barrel-vaulted ceiling dates from 1751. One of the features is the golden harp on a blue background which is the same as the presidential standard.

Zhao Shao Ruo 11-11-2011

Zhao Shao Ruo 11-11-2011

There are some plaster busts in the alcoves at the back. One of them is of James Clarence Mangan, who Yeats regarded as one of the best Irish poets. His poems were published in The Nation and among the best-known of his works is “Dark Rosaleen”. There is a memorial to him in St Stephen’s Green, a bust by Oliver Sheppard. It was commissioned by a committee that included Dr George Sigerson and DJ O’Donoghue, librarian at University College, who wrote a biography of him and who is also the person who completed William Carleton’s autobiography.

James Clarence Mangan

James Clarence Mangan

From the entrance hall, the visitor enters the Francini corridor, leading towards the state reception room. It contains the busts of past Presidents and was created in 1957 during the presidency of Sean T O’Ceallaigh. The one of Mary Robinson is a good likeness, in my view, but the most recent one of Mary McAleese is debatable. It was commissioned in 1999 and is by Carolyn Mulholland RHA from Lurgan. It cost €7,600.

Mary McAleese

Mary McAleese

There is also a portrait of Mrs McAleese which hangs alongside pictures of the other holders of the office. The Aras was built by Nathaniel Clements in 1751 and became the residence of British Viceroys until the creation of the Irish Free State (Saorstát Éireann) in 1922. More details about the building and pictures along with details of President Higgins can be found here

MOUNT JEROME CEMETERY

William Carleton's Grave

William Carleton’s Grave

Commemorating the 144th anniversary of the death in January 1869 of the leading Irish author William Carleton last weekend, I laid flowers at his grave at Mount Jerome Cemetery in Dublin. It also gave a group of us an opportunity to visit the graves of several other famous Irish people. The graveyard contains one of the finest collections of Victorian memorials, tombs, vaults and crypts in Ireland.

Carleton’s last resting place is relatively easy to find, as it is on close to the main avenue leading up to the church, on the right hand side. It is marked by a small obelisk, raised ‘to mark the place wherein rest the remains of one whose memory needs neither graven stone nor sculptured marble to preserve it from oblivion’. It includes a sculptured portrait of Carleton by James Cahill, set in stone. It was restored and unveiled on 15th August 1989, thanks to the William Carleton Memorial Committee that included the writer Benedict Kiely, Barbara Hayley (NUI Maynooth) and Vivien Igoe. In her book, “A Literary Guide to Dublin“, Methuen 1994, she recalls how:-

“Kiely said in his oration that Carleton, as a novelist, had taken up the issues of tenants’ rights, emigration and famine and had put down on record the Irish people as he remembered them before the famine, before they were practically wiped out. Irish people have not much changed, he said”.   

Sir William Wilde grave

Sir William Wilde grave

The next significant grave close to the entrance to the church is that of Dr William Wilde, eye and ear surgeon, father of Oscar and husband of Lady Jane Wilde, neé Elgee. She was an important figure in her own right, a poet and writer, who published under the name “Speranza” and played a part in the Irish literary revival. Oscar is buried in Paris. The side of the memorial carries the inscription: “In Memoriam Jane Francesca, Lady Wilde, ‘Speranza’ of The Nation, Writer, Translator, Poet and Nationalist, Author of Works on Irish Folklore, Early Advocate of Equality for Women and Founder of a Leading Literary Salon. Born Dublin 27 December 1821              Died London 3 February 1896.  Wife of Sir William and Mother of William Charles Kingsbury Wilde, Barrister and Journalist 1852-1899 Oscar Fingal O’Flahertie Wills Wilde, Poet Wit and Dramatist 1854-1900 Isola Francesca Emily Wilde 1857-1867 “Tread lightly, she is near, Under the snow, Speak gently, she can hear The lilies grow“.

JM Synge grave

JM Synge grave

Another important figure in the Irish literary renaissance was the playright, John Millington Synge. His grave was more difficult to find. Synge was born in Rathfarnham, Co.Dublin on April 16th 1871 and died on March 24th 1909. He is best known for writing “The Playboy of the Western World“.  His brother, Reverend Samuel Synge who was a missionary in China is also buried there along with his wife Mary and his aunt Jane, second daughter of John Hatch Synge of Glanmore, Co.Wicklow.

Jack B. Yeats grave

Jack B. Yeats grave

WB Yeats was another leading figure in the Irish literary revival. His grave is in Drumcliff churchyard, under bare Ben Bulben’s head in Co.Sligo. But his brother, the painter Jack Butler Yeats, lies in Mount Jerome. He died on March 28th 1957, although the faded bronze lettering on the tombstone makes his grave difficult to spot. He was elected a member of the Royal Hibernian Academy in 1916. In 1999 one of his paintings was sold at Sotheby’s in London (where he was born in 1871) for over £1.2 million pounds. His wife Mary Cottenham Yeats predeceased him by ten years.

Buried in a different section is another member of the RHA, Sarah Purser. One of her paintings of a coastal scene in the West of Ireland was sold by Ross’s auctioneers of Belfast in 2007 f0r £2400. Not far from her grave is buried the writer Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu, but his exact burial spot could not be found, despite the assistance of a map. I think I saw two graves lying side by side near a tree and next to the path, but I could not find any inscription on the stones.

Sarah Purser grave

Sarah Purser grave

While wandering around I noticed a Celtic Cross and looked at the inscription. It turned out that the person buried there, James Hamilton Moore,  came from Aughnacloy, Co.Tyrone where some of my relatives on my mother’s side come from. Further research revealed his name in the British Parliamentary Papers on Ireland in a report on the (sectarian) riots in Belfast in July and September 1857. It seems things have not changed much in over 150 years! Moore is listed in an Appendix as part of evidence presented on behalf of the Orange Society (Order), of which he was a senior member.

James Hamilton Moore grave

James Hamilton Moore grave

Moore was Grand Treasurer of the Trinity College Grand District and was a solicitor with an address at 56 Lower Gardiner Street in Dublin (then a fashionable Georgian street). He is also listed as Deputy Grand Secretary of the Grand Orange Lodge of Ireland which met at Molesworth Street in Dublin in November 1856 and his address is given as Gardina Lodge, Monkstown, Co. Dublin.  So next time you have to attend a funeral or cremation at Mount Jerome, take the opportunity to think of all the others who found their place of eternal rest there. They include the writer AE (George Russell), Benjamin Guinness of the brewing family and Sir William Rowan Hamilton, mathematician and astronomer. Since the 1920s Catholics have been buried at the cemetery. In 1994 the remains of the well-known criminal Martin Cahill “The General” were brought there and his grave is now unmarked owing to vandalism.

LINCOLN

Abraham Lincoln

Abraham Lincoln

I enjoyed a visit to the cinema yesterday, although for a film nominated for twelve Academy awards, the attendance of seven at a late night Friday showing must have disappointed the owners. Lincoln is the type of film I like, an historical drama. Daniel Day-Lewis gives a convincing performance as the main character, United States President Abraham Lincoln. At one stage, Liam Neeson was being groomed for this role. The President’s wife Mary Todd Lincoln is played by Sally Field. Some of the best scenes are those in which the two interact. There are rows about Lincoln’s son Robert wanting to join the Union Army against his mother’s wishes.

In another dramatic sequence, the President is visiting a military hospital but Robert refuses to accompany him inside. When he sees an attendant wheeling a barrow dripping with blood, Robert follows the trail and discovers it is coming from amputated limbs of wounded soldiers being buried in the hospital grounds. This helps him to make up his mind to enlist in the army and he is posted to the staff of General Ulysses Grant.

The narrative begins in January 1865, four months before Lincoln’s death and in the final stages of the Civil War, with two black soldiers and two white soldiers from the Union army talking to the President. But it is the politics of the House of Representatives that dominates the two and a half hour narrative, slightly too long in my view. Lincoln was seeking to outlaw slavery and the 13th amendment to the US Constitution was passed by the 38th Congress on January 31st 1865, and approved the following day, so the date I chose to watch the film coincided with that anniversary.

Virginia State Capitol

Virginia State Capitol

The scenes in the House of Representatives were not shot in Washington DC, but instead in the historic Virginia State Capitol building in Richmond, which I visited on holidays in 2007. I recognised the Chamber with its gallery and a marble statue in the Rotunda of George Washington. In order to get the amendment passed with the required two-thirds majority, Lincoln through his secretary of state William Seward had to engage in a lot of wheeling and dealing, using agents to offer Democrat representatives federal positions if they switched sides. This political intrigue provides an interesting aspect to the story. The amendment was eventually put through by 119 votes to 56, just two votes above the necessary margin.

Section 1. Neither slavery nor involuntary servitude, except as a punishment for crime whereof the party shall have been duly convicted, shall exist within the United States, or any place subject to their jurisdiction. Section 2. Congress shall have power to enforce this article by appropriate legislation.

13th Amendment US Constitution (Credit: NARA)

13th Amendment (Credit: NARA)

Catherine Clinton is a Professor of US History at Queen’s University Belfast. She has written a book about Mrs Lincoln and acted as a historical consultant for the film. She explained her role in an interview with BBC NI, as Peter Coulter explains.

MIXED MARRIAGE

P1050918 (2)When the Lyric Theatre decided last year to put on “Mixed Marriage” as the first of four in the Tales of the City series, little did they think that a drama set in Belfast over 100 years ago would have a modern resonance. The play was written by St John Ervine, a distant relative of playwright Brian Ervine and his late brother David of the PUP. The backdrop was the 1907 lockout strike led by James Larkin. For a time, Catholics and Protestants joined together in a common cause but later on sectarian tensions were stoked up and rioting broke out, which the police (RIC) and military had to deal with.P1050919

The play is directed by Jimmy Fay, associate artist with the Abbey Theatre in Dublin, where Mixed Marriage had its first performance in March 1911, before moving to London and then New York. Ervine who was born in Belfast in 1883 went on to become General Manager of the theatre in 1915 but did not last long in the post,  becoming disillusioned and resigning in 1916 soon after the Easter Rising.

Royal Dublin Fusiliers Memorial Window

Royal Dublin Fusiliers Memorial Window

He then joined the Dublin Fusiliers regiment in the British Army and fought during world war I in Flanders, losing a leg. As well as writing Mixed Marriage (1911), Ervine also authored two other plays, Anthony and Anna (1926) and The First Mrs Fraser (1929). He also wrote a biography of George Bernard Shaw, which was awarded the James Tait Black Memorial prize in 1956.

Post-performance discussion

Post-performance discussion

Following the performance, the cast returned to the stage along with Jimmy Fay and held a very interesting discussion with the audience, of which more later. By chance this morning I received a newsletter “What’s on at Queen’s” from the QUB Alumni office. The first item on the agenda is a seminar being held on Monday 4th February at 6pm by the School of Creative Arts: “In Conversation with Jimmy Fay”. He didn’t mention it to me as we chatted while leaving the theatre last night, when he was returning briefly to Dublin. But I am glad to get the opportunity to mention the event here as the interaction with him at the Lyric was very useful. Admission is free.

Jimmy Fay

Jimmy Fay